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World-renowned mountaineer Nirmal Purja killed in avalanche on Pakistan's Broad Peak
Nepali mountaineer Nirmal Purja was known as the fastest person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders. Purja and other climbers on his team died in an avalanche on Broad Peak in Pakistan.
Nepali mountaineer Nirmal Purja, one of the world's best-known climbers, died in an avalanche on Broad Peak in Pakistan. His death was announced on Instagram by his expedition agency, Elite Exped.
"Today, with deep sadness and unbearable pain, we confirm that Nirmal 'Nimsdai' Purja tragically lost his life in an avalanche on Broad Peak. We have also confirmed that, unfortunately, the other participants on the expedition did not survive," Elite Exped said in a statement, stressing that the world had lost one of its greatest climbers.
The 43-year-old Purja was caught in the avalanche on July 30 while climbing the 8,047-meter Broad Peak, the world's 12th highest. Data from his GPS tracker showed that at the time of the avalanche he was at 6,660 meters, and was swept over 600 meters in just 30 minutes. The device of Omani mountaineer Nadhira Al Harthi recorded a drop of 1,600 meters.
Elite Exped co-founder Mingma Gyabu Sherpa wrote that Purja's GPS signals continued moving, which initially gave them hope that he might be alive, but that rescue efforts were halted due to bad weather. Nepal's Prime Minister Balendra Shah confirmed on August 1 the deaths of Purja and all team members, saying, "Their courage, dedication and legacy will remain a source of inspiration forever."
Record-breaking climber's career
Born in a small village in Nepal, Purja joined the Gurkha brigade of the British Army in 2003, like his father and older brothers. In 2009, he became the first Gurkha to be admitted to the British Royal Navy's Special Boat Service (SBS). He took up climbing in 2012 during an Everest expedition and soon became a passionate mountaineer. In 2017, he drew attention by climbing Everest, Lhotse and Makalu in just five days.
Purja gained his greatest fame in 2019 by summiting all 14 eight-thousand-meter peaks in only 189 days, shattering the previous record of around eight years. In 2024, he broke another record by climbing all those peaks without supplemental oxygen. Queen Elizabeth II awarded him the Order of the British Empire (MBE) in 2018 for his outstanding mountaineering achievements.
The final climb and his goal
Purja had not originally planned to climb Broad Peak in 2026, but changed his mind in late July and headed for the summit leading a team of 10 professional climbers. In a post on X, he wrote: "Just before going to Pakistan I re-counted my ascents above 8,000 meters. If I summit Broad Peak now, only Cho Oyu will remain. I will then be the FIRST person in history to have climbed all 14 eight-thousanders twice. Without oxygen."
He always said he wanted "to show that humans have no limits." His story reached millions through the 2021 Netflix documentary "14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible."
Purja's death has sent deep sorrow through the mountaineering community.
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